The Gujarati drape is immediately recognisable because the pallu is pinned at the front-right shoulder and falls diagonally across the chest to the left hip, rather than over the left shoulder and behind. This puts the decorative pallu border on full display at the front of the body — ideal for Patola and Bandhani sarees where the design is concentrated in the pallu. The front pleats are identical to Nivi, but the pallu direction reverses.
Tuck the plain end of the saree into the petticoat at your right hip, leaving about 25cm above the waistband.
Wrap the fabric around the body from right to left, keeping the border even at the hem.
Make 5 to 7 pleats at the front, about 5cm wide each, and tuck them into the petticoat just left of centre, pleats facing left — exactly as in Nivi.
Take the remaining fabric (the pallu) and instead of throwing it over the left shoulder, bring it across the front of the body from left to right.
Drape the pallu end over the right shoulder, so it falls down the right side of the back.
Bring the pallu end back around under the right arm to the front.
Pin the pallu at the right shoulder seam of the blouse.
Spread the pallu fabric open so it fans across the front of the body, with the decorative border clearly visible across the chest.
The pallu should hang from the right shoulder to approximately waist level at the left side.
For Navratri, a Bandhani saree in this drape keeps the tie-dye pattern on full display — that is the entire visual point.
Use two pins at the right shoulder to prevent the pallu from slipping during dancing or movement.
The pallu border should run diagonally from right shoulder to left hip — if it bunches at the chest, spread it and re-pin.
The saree has a heavy embellished border only on the hem and not the pallu — the drape loses its visual impact
Very tall women with long torsos — the pallu diagonal may not reach the left hip correctly without a longer saree
Gujarati women at weddings and Navratri who want the contrast pallu of a Patola or Bandhani prominently displayed across the front.
Smriti Irani in Gujarati Patola sarees at traditional events