The Nivi is the default saree drape across India and the starting point for every other regional variation. It originated in Andhra Pradesh and spread through the country partly because of Bollywood and partly because it works on almost every body type. The pallu falls over the left shoulder, the pleats sit at the centre-front tucked into the petticoat at the navel, and the end result creates a clean diagonal line from hip to shoulder.
Tuck the plain end of the saree into the petticoat at your right hip, leaving about 30cm above the waistband.
Wrap the fabric around the body once, going left to right, keeping the border at the bottom running parallel to the floor.
Begin making pleats — 5 to 7 pleats, each about 5cm wide — starting from the tucked edge. Hold all pleats together so they fan uniformly.
Tuck the pleats into the petticoat at the centre-front, about 2cm to the left of your navel. The pleats should face left.
Take the remaining fabric and wrap it around the body one more time from right to left.
Bring the remaining fabric (the pallu) across the front of the body and throw it over the left shoulder, letting it fall behind.
Pin the pallu at the left shoulder to your blouse shoulder seam with a safety pin through the blouse fabric.
Adjust the pallu length so the decorative end falls to knee level or slightly below — the border should be visible and straight.
Check that the saree hemline is even all around, about 1 to 2cm above the floor.
Use a saree pin at the left shoulder through both the pallu and the blouse shoulder seam — not through the pallu alone, which causes it to slip.
If the fabric is slippery (chiffon, georgette), wear a lightly textured cotton petticoat and tuck the initial end in deeply, folding it back on itself for grip.
For a cleaner pleat line, iron each pleat with a light steam before draping.
Your petticoat waistband is very loose — the pleats will not stay anchored
The saree is under 5.5m — there will not be enough fabric for a full pallu
Anyone learning to drape a saree for the first time, and anyone who needs one draping style that works across weddings, temples, offices, and everyday wear.
Rekha in almost every public appearance since the 1980s