The Mumtaz drape takes its name from the actress Mumtaz, who popularised wearing the saree low on the hips in 1970s Bollywood films. The saree sits 4 to 6cm below the natural waist — at the hip bone rather than the navel — which exposes a longer stretch of midriff. The front pleats are tighter and fewer than standard Nivi. This drape works only if the wearer is comfortable with a visible midriff and has a toned midsection, because the hip-level placement draws the eye directly to that area.
Lower your petticoat to sit at the hip bone — about 4 to 6cm below where you would normally tie it at the navel.
Tuck the plain end of the saree into the petticoat at the right hip at this lower position.
Wrap the fabric around the body, keeping the border at the hem level — note that the hem will sit higher off the floor because the saree is sitting lower on the body.
Make 3 to 5 pleats (fewer than standard Nivi) and tuck them into the petticoat at the centre-front-hip, pleats facing left.
Wrap the remaining fabric around the body.
Bring the pallu across the front and over the left shoulder.
Pin the pallu at the left shoulder seam.
The midriff from the navel upward should be exposed between the blouse hem and the saree waistline.
Pair with a cropped blouse ending at the rib cage or above the navel for the intended effect.
The petticoat must sit firmly at the hip bone — if it is loose, the saree will slip down further and the pleats will not hold.
A shorter crop blouse (ending 3 to 5cm above the navel) completes the look; a standard blouse negates it.
This drape is not suitable for a full day of movement — it needs periodic adjustment every couple of hours.
You are not comfortable with midriff exposure — the entire visual premise of this drape is the exposed midriff
The occasion is a temple or a traditional ceremony where exposed midriff is not appropriate
Very lightweight fabrics without structure — the hip-level tuck needs fabric weight to stay in place
Women with an hourglass figure at receptions and sangeets who want a film-inspired, midriff-baring look in a lightweight saree.
Mumtaz in Brahmachari (1968); Bipasha Basu at film industry events