The Coorg drape is worn exclusively by Kodava women at Coorg weddings and is one of the most unusual saree draping styles in India. The pleats are at the back instead of the front, and the pallu falls from the right shoulder across the back to the left side. The look from the front is smooth and unpleated; the drape exposes the back arrangement of the fabric. It requires either a trusted helper or significant practice to execute correctly.
Tuck the plain end of the saree into the petticoat at the centre-back of the waist, leaving about 30cm above the waistband.
Wrap the fabric around the body from back to front, right side first, keeping the border even at the hem.
Continue wrapping the fabric completely around the body and back to the start.
Make 5 to 7 pleats at the centre-back (where you started) and tuck them into the petticoat at the back-centre, pleats facing right.
Bring the remaining fabric around the right side of the body to the front.
Take the pallu from the front, cross it over the right shoulder so it falls behind.
The pallu drapes over the right shoulder and crosses the back diagonally.
Pin the pallu at the right shoulder and at the point where it crosses the back to prevent slipping.
From the front, the saree should appear smooth and unpleated with the border running cleanly at the hem.
This drape is almost impossible to do alone for the first time — have a helper manage the back pleats while you hold the front fabric in place.
A heavier silk like Kanjivaram or Mysore silk holds the back pleats better than lightweight fabrics.
Traditional Coorg draping is done with a specific flower arrangement in the hair (male and female flowers of the coffee plant) — the drape is always part of a complete traditional look.
You are not attending a Coorg wedding — this drape has no other social context and would look out of place elsewhere
You are draping alone without help — the back pleating cannot be seen while you work
Kodava women at traditional Coorg weddings and cultural ceremonies where the regional dress code is observed.
Parvathy Omanakuttan at Kodava cultural events