The fishtail drape creates a mermaid-tail silhouette at the back by fanning the pleats outward behind the body rather than tucking them at the front. The front of the saree is smooth and fitted like a column, while the back opens into a wide cascading fan from the knee down. It is a purely aesthetic drape designed for receptions, photoshoots, and red-carpet moments — movement is very limited in the fishtail, so it is not practical for a full day of sitting or dancing.
Tuck the plain end of the saree into the petticoat at the right hip as in Nivi.
Wrap the fabric tightly around the body twice, keeping the border at the hem — the fabric should hug the body closely with no slack at the hips or thighs.
Instead of making front pleats, take the remaining fabric and begin fanning it into pleats at the back of the body, below the hips.
Make 7 to 10 narrow pleats (about 3cm wide) and fan them outward behind the body, securing each pleat with pins as you go.
The fanned pleats should start at the back of the knees and spread outward like a fan or mermaid fin.
Bring the pallu end across the front of the body from left to right after all back pleats are set.
Drape the pallu over the right shoulder or use the remaining fabric to create a wrap across the front.
Pin the pallu at the right shoulder and at the left hip where it crosses.
Stand in profile to check: the front should be smooth and column-like; the back should open into a wide fan from knee level.
Have a helper set the back pleats — they cannot be reached or seen from the front.
Use safety pins generously through each pleat from outside to inside the waist-back — the fan collapses without firm pinning.
Plan for limited mobility: walking in the fishtail is possible, but sitting for long periods will crush the fan at the back.
You plan to sit down frequently — the fishtail back fan does not survive sustained sitting
Heavy silk or brocade sarees — the back pleats need lightness to fan open; a Banarasi will clump rather than spread
You are draping without a helper — the back pleating is not achievable solo
Women with an hourglass or pear figure at staged photoshoots and receptions where they will be largely standing and the back silhouette matters as much as the front.
Priyanka Chopra in Sabyasachi for her engagement saree look