The Rajasthani drape is most recognisable because the pallu is brought up to cover the head, functioning as both a saree and a ghoonghat in one. The draping technique itself resembles Nivi at the waist, but the pallu is long enough to be drawn up over the head and held or pinned there. In rural Rajasthan, the pallu stays over the head throughout the occasion. In urban Rajasthan and at weddings, it is worn over the head initially and let down after formal proceedings.
Tuck the plain end of the saree into the petticoat at the right hip, leaving about 25cm above the waistband.
Wrap the fabric around the body from right to left, border at the hem.
Make 5 to 7 front pleats and tuck them into the petticoat just left of centre, pleats facing left.
Wrap the remaining fabric around the body one more time.
Bring the pallu across the front and over the left shoulder as in Nivi — but do not pin it at the shoulder yet.
Continue bringing the pallu fabric up from the left shoulder over the crown of the head.
Let the decorative pallu end hang down over the right side of the face at approximately chin to chest level.
Pin the pallu at the left shoulder and at the crown of the head if needed to hold it in place.
The right side of the pallu hangs near the face like a soft veil; the left side falls down the back.
For Leheriya sarees, use the stripes of the fabric as alignment guides — the diagonal stripe lines should run symmetrically when the pallu is over the head.
In Rajasthani tradition, the pallu over the head is not optional at certain ceremonies — it is a mark of respect, particularly at weddings and in the presence of elders.
Use a small bun or pins in the hair at the crown to give the pallu fabric something to grip — this prevents it from sliding backward.
You have very short hair that does not hold the pallu fabric — it will slide constantly
Rajasthani women at traditional weddings and ceremonies, and anyone wearing a Bandhani or Leheriya saree at a cultural event where the head-cover drape is appropriate.
Hema Malini at Rajasthani cultural events and Gangaur festival appearances